Lhakpa Ri (7,043m.)

The most climable 7,000m peak in the world, Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world.

The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals.

Lhakpa Ri is a superb objective which should appeal to climbers looking for a 7,000m summit in a famous location. The visit to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers.

The Expedition
Climbing Lhakpa Ri involves a similar itinerary to the initial phase of an expedition to the North Ridge of Everest. From Kathmandu, we fly to Lhasa and spend several days in what was the "Forbidden City". Then there is an incredible journey through Tibet, along the Friendship Highway before turning south to the Rongbuk Valley below Everest. We spend time acclimatising at base camp before making the two-day hike to advance base camp (ABC), at about 6,300m.

The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank, ascending low-angled snow for 600m, which steepens at mid-height to around 30-35°. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, we turn south and follow the snow ridge to the summit.

After returning to base camp, we complete the remainder of the Friendship Highway, driving along the northern side of the Himalaya range, again with views of Everest, Cho Oyu and numerous other peaks. The road eventually descends to the Friendship Bridge, where we cross into Nepal and continue to Kathmandu.

Fixed Departure Date

Sept. 10, 2008, April 14, 2009 – Sept. 09, 2009

Itinerary Outline

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Trip Cost
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Service includes:

All land transportation by private vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport & trekking pick up & drop).
Welcome dinner with Nepali culture programs.
6 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at (3 Star Hotel) Hotel Manang.
Experience, professional Nepalese expedition crews; Advance Base Camp guide, Cook, Kitchen boys, and mountaineering gears till to the ABC.
Crew’s equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility will provided by our agency itself.
Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew’s.
3 Major meals B/L/D (Full board basis) and Hotel accommodation while on the way to expedition as per programs Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri Base Camp and continue till Lhasa.
3 Major meals B/L/D during your stay in Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
Each person will get one North Face brand Tent and Mattress for Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
We provide Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent and Kitchen Tent at Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to and from Base Camp and Advance Base Camp
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Advance Base Camp to Chinese Base Camp. (Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels carried by Yak).
Kathmandu/ Zhangmu/ Chinese Base Camp/ Zhangmu/ Kathmandu by tourist Mini Bus/Jeep/ Land Cruiser for members, Nepalese crew’s and Truck for the whole expedition gears.
Lakpa Ri Expedition permit, Tibet group Visa and Travel Permit.
Liaison Officer and Interpreter for expedition till Chinese Base Camp.
Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator for Advance Base Camp.
Satellite Phone (Pay call service till ABC).
Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member during the expedition.
Expedition T-shirts for each member with expedition label.
Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crew’s and simple medical service for members till ABC.

Service does not include:

Airfare: To & from your country.
International airport departure tax.
Nepal entry visa and Re-entry visa fees.
Personal expedition climbing gears.
Major meals: Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Personal local transportation in Kathmandu and Tibet except above mentioned programs.
Personal travel medical and rescue insurance.
Emergency evacuation: Rescue Jeep US $ 700 to Zhangmu/Nepal border.
Personal medicines and First-Aid expenses.
Personal nature expenses.
All Drinks except tea and coffee.
Postage letter, Laundry service, Telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
Walkie-Talkie.
Extra Yak: Per Yak's US $ 100 will be charged for 40 KG. load and US $ 25 for per Tibetan Yak man.
Garbage Deposit: US $ 300 (sharing with all total of the expedition climbers) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the climbers don’t take back their garbage to ABC.
Tips for Nepalese crews, etc.

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